Here are a few tips and tricks (in no particular order) for keeping warm while cycling in the winter months:
Base layer - a garment worn directly against the skin that has wicking/moisture transfer capabilities. It transfers perspiration from the skin to the outside of the garment so it can evaporate. Moist clothing is an immediate conductor of heat or cold. I have a long sleeve winter weight base layer from Craft that works very well. I wear a sleeveless summer weight base layer under my jersey, even on the hottest day as it transfers sweat away from the body and keeps you cooler on a hot day.
Windtex or Windstopper Fabric - Windtex is a windstopper coating that is found in many lightweight outdoor clothing items. The garment can remain lightweight but has excellent windshielding capabilities. It also "breathes" which means moisture ( sweat) can escape and evaporate. This is a very good thing. You can find this coating in jerseys, vests. At this time of year I wear a thermal jacket or vest, which is a windstopper jersey or vest with some light thermal fleecing or piling to trap warm air in the garment. Do not put windstopper garments in the dryer, hang them dry.
Booties - I always wear neoprene booties over Pearl Izumi toe warmers.
Wool sox - I always wear wool cycling sox for their warmth and wicking properties. They must be cycling sox, anything else is too thick and your shoes won't fit.
Skull cap / Ear warmers - 80 % of your body heat can be lost out of the top of your head, your body will protect your brain at any cost. If your head and core are warm, then the body will allow blood to flow to your extremities. (hands and feet) I always wear at least ear warmers, and sometimes wear a windstopper skull cap under my helmet to keep my head warm and block air flow from the vents in my helmet. I also line my helmet with newspaper to help block the flow of air, you need vents in the summer but not now. When I get on the bike at 0630 in the morning I wear a Pearl Izumi balaclava, which is a whole head windtex covering with just a slot for your eyes. This way your face stays warm in sub 30 degree temps, otherwise you can do serious damage to your skin.
Helmet - As I said, line it with newspaper to keep the wind out. Many cyclists will go buy a low cost, low vent, entry level helmet for around $35 that is one size too big. This way you can line it or wear a skull cap, or even a ski hat underneath. Save your fancy helmet that fits well with lots of vents for the summer.
Vest - The best thing you can ever buy. I have thermal windstopper vests, and just plain lightweight shell vests which can be removed for a climb, stored in a jersey pocket, and put back on for the descent. It will keep your core warm and shielded from the wind, hence more bood available for your hands and feet.
Layering - The basic concept of layering helps trap warm air, but does you no good if you are not using good technical fabrics that transfer moisture to the outside of the garment for evaporation. If you layer with cotton you will stay wet and cold, and get colder as the day goes on. If you can stay dry, you will stay warmer. Right now I typically start with base layer, possibly another summer base layer under that, Thermal windstopper jacket, and lightweight windtopper shell vest.
Tights - I wear Hind Drylete tights UNDERNEATH my cycling bib shorts. Wearing them under prevents them from slipping down and gives you two layers at least to almost your knee. Drylete is a technical fabric from Hind that is moisture transfer, there are many others that work well too.
Assos Chamois Creme - A medicated lubricant that is applied directly to the skin or chamois of short. It helps prevent saddle sores ( a skin blister generally found at the bottom of your glutes, over the sit bone ) caused by rubbing. Glide stick also works but not as well.
Sunscreen and Sunglasses - I never, ever, ride without sunscreen or sunglasses. If it's low light conditions I wear a lighter tint sunglass. Skin and eyes are far too fragile not to be protected.
PVC rain jacket - You've seen those clear rain jackets, they are not expensive and can be stufffed into a jersey pocket if you get caught in a downpour. Buy it big enough to fit over all your bulky stuff.
Gloves - Don't cut corners, get a good winter weight windstopper glove with a lining like Thinsulate, you may even want to buy them big enough to wear glove liners underneath. Liners can be put in jersey pocket if you get too hot.
GoreTex - This is a waterproof membrane that is added to the lining of a garment. It has pores that allow moisture ( sweat ) to escape, but the pores are too small to allow water in. It is basically waterproof and breathable, will keep you dry and warm in snow or rain. There are a number of copies as well. It also has great windstopper capabilities. Do not put in dryer, hang dry.
Newspaper - This is going to sound crazy, but it's a trick used by pro cyclists for years. At the top of a mountain stage in the Alps, riders in short sleeves jerseys dripping with sweat are ill prepared for a 55 minute descent at high speed in frigid temps. Many grap papers or whatever is handy and stuff them in the front of a jersey to add a bit of insulation. I was recently caught back in Steele Canyon, hours from the car, horribly underdressed for this canyon which was at least 25 degrees colder than the surrounding area. I got newspaper at the corner store, grabbed seven or eight sheets and folded it over, placed it flat over my whole torso area. It wasn't as good as a thermal jacket, but got me home alot warmer than I would have been.
Nutrition - Vigorous exercise burns about 600 calories per hour, in the cold you burn calories trying to stay warm as well. I always eat something with protein ( like an egg sandwich ) before a ride. I always fill two large bottles with water and a calorie supplement like Enervitene ( Wheelworks ) or Gatorade. I also bring a few bars and two or three Enervit gels with me. Bonking sucks and bonking in the cold sucks even more.
Hydration - There is tendency to overlook drinking water in the winter. I ALWAYS force down 24 oz of fluid per one hour of exercise no matter what. If I ride for three hours that means I need money for a pit stop because I only can carry two large bottles. So....I plan rides like this to end up at a store or water source at around the 2 hour mark.....For example, the store at the Muscovite corner ( 121 and 128 junction) and make sure they are open ! A 5 % reduction in hydration or body water can result in a 25% reduction in performance.
Recovery - If I ride more than two hours I use a recovery drink (R2 from Enervit) within 20 minutes of ceasing to exercise.
That's about all I can think of right now. Hope this helps.
